SHT: Days 13-15

Start:  Lutsen Ski Area
End:  Kadunce River Campsite
Day 13-15 mileage:  46.7 miles
Total mileage:  220.4 miles

I hated to leave the room, but I got hiking a little before 8am.  There was a drizzle, high winds, and it was in the 40’s, so generally miserable.  It was a couple hours before I saw anyone on the trail and my poncho was blowing all around and my shoes were soggy. When I saw the first people of the day, I said, “I thought I was the only idiot on the trail.”  They smiled and one of them said, “There are a few of us out here.”  I ran into some southbound thru-hikers a little later.  They told me there was a shelter 10 minutes ahead.  These emergency shelters are rare and do not have enough room for sleeping quarters.  They do have benches inside, however. I stopped there for lunch, relieved to be out of the rain and a little out of the wind.

I had a hard time leaving, but sucked it up and did.  I couldn’t feel my fingers or toes.  I put on my gloves and rain mittens, and eventually I regained feeling in all my appendages.  I found myself on a high ridge and it was so windy I was afraid to go to the overlooks, for fear of being blown off the mountain.  On the bright side, the wind dried my shoes out and I saw a bald eagle overhead.  He seemed to be the only one enjoying the wind.

I am hoping to get into Grand Marais early tomorrow, so hiked a little further than planned.

I am at North Cascade River campsite.  There is a couple a hundred feet away or so, the river is fairly loud, and I am pretty exhausted. All of these factors should make for good sleeping.

I got into Grand Marais around 1pm and stopped for breakfast before going to the outfitter where I picked up my food resupply box that I left there a couple weeks ago.  It was very windy and the waves of Lake Superior were crashing like crazy.  There was a little stoop near the outfitter where I sat down to organize my food and get the trash out of my pack.  It was out of the wind.  I’m pretty sure passerby thought I was homeless.  I was originally going to sleep at the campground in Grand Marais and take a zero day.  The weather forecast looked crummy and I figured I might as well be miserable on the trail since I was going to be in a tent either way.  I also took a shower in Lutsen and since the weather has been cooler, I may be dirty, but can stand myself.  So I hit up the grocery store on the way out of town and bought kettle-cooked BBQ chips.  I began to walk out of town eating my chips and was dreading the walk on the Gunflint Trail.  The walk on this scenic byway was a little less than a mile before picking up the trail again, but it was uphill and my pack was heavy with my replenished food.  I picked Grand Marais as a resupply point because I wouldn’t have to hitchhike.  However, feeling lazy, I stuck out my thumb thinking it would be easy for an attractive (albeit smelly) lone female to get a ride.  [Disclaimer:  I know this is perceived as dangerous, but I carry pepper spray and a Spot device with SOS feature.]  I tried about five cars, including one that slowed way down to get a closer look and then kept going (something that happened to Domonick and I on the PCT occasionally), and gave up.  What was wrong with these people?  I hoofed up the hill eventually making it to Pincushion Mountain with a view of Grand Marais.  I slept at West Devils Track.

The next day was a high of 44 and rainy in the morning.  I slept in, planning to do only 11 miles, since the campsite after that had reported bear sightings.  With my luck, I would be there alone and hear all the bumps in the night. My feet were so wet from high grasses I could feel the frigid water sloshing around in my shoes. I was crampy in the morning and had such low energy all I could think about was lying in my tent. I started my period, something I hoped to avoid on the trail, but apparently I needed one more challenge thrown into the day.  Trying to change underwear and maintain a level of cleanliness slightly higher than a farm animal is complicated in the wilderness.  Needless to say I was freezing, wet, and generally miserable.  I ran into a few thru-hikers today who were flip-flopping. I had lunch with a couple and the conversation with them made things seem brighter.  I got to Kadunce campsite about 4pm and set up camp, eating an early dinner.  I was camping alone, but was so tired and worn out I didn’t even care.  Tomorrow is supposed to be a high of 61, so hopefully I can thaw out.