May 30th, 2017
Baamonde to Sobrado des Monxes (Alburgue de Perigrino)
Km walked: 40
Km total: 757
Today was one of the better days on the trail and one of the most “remote.” For a good 3-4 hours we walked on quiet, far out country roads with nary a sign of human life. It almost felt like wilderness. Almost.
Late in the afternoon we arrived at the highest point on the Norte at 700 meters, or 2100 feet. I almost felt a nosebleed coming on.
We arrived in Sobrado around 5:30 after another 40 kilometer day, which is around 25 miles. Kilometers go by easily on the Camino because it is basically flat, and the surface is either pavement or packed dirt. It is easy to walk quickly and consistently.
On arrival to Sobrado, we saw the most amazing Monestary and overal building of the whole trip. Built in the 1100s and then rebuilt in the 1600s, the Sobrado des Monxes is a sight to behold. It is all old stone and looks incredibly intimidating. The monks of St James run an Alburgue inside the monestary, and that’s where we are staying tonight.
Inside the monestary is a network of courtyards and old passageways. It’s like something out of the movies. The church is probably the most impressive and beautiful thing I’ve seen on the entirety of the Camino. It’s just so old. The stone is fading and green, and light pours in from several windows on the front and back of the church, filling the wide open chamber with mute light. There is just a magnificent and commanding aura about the place. It stuns you as you enter it and stays with you when you leave. I’ve never seen anything like it in my life.
Tomorrow we will meet up with the Frances route, which is the most popular Camino, as we make our way to Santiago. We expect an influx of pilgrims at this juncture- as our guide book told us so, and warned us to be prepared for the significant culture shock that will ensue. There is only 60 kilometers left to the Cathedral, and we are pretty excited to get to the end of this thing. I’ve never felt a sense of urgency of this magnitude to finish on any other long trip I’ve done.
There was a guest book at the monestary, and one of the entries from yesterday read:
We had a great time at the monestary, but unfortunately somebody stole one of our phones and a bunch of clothes.
This is a sad reality. This is the first I’ve heard of theft first hand on the Camino, but apparently there is a fair amount of it at the municipal Alburgue in Santiago. You really need to watch your critical items. I never leave my wallet, passport, phone or camera behind. When we take showers, or use the restroom, one person goes and the other stays with our things.
It’s sad, but you can never trust anyone.
